BACK TO SCHOOL – THE "ABC"S OF SKIN CARE

"A" – Alpha Hydroxy Acid
"B" – Beta Hydroxy Acid
"C" - Vitamin C

Alpha hydroxy acids are derived from fruit and dairy products. They include; glycolic acid, (derived from sugarcane), lactic acid, (from sour milk), tartaric acid, (from grapes), and citric acid, (from citrus fruits).

Alpha hydroxy acids are chemical exfoliators, which have been found to “beneficially impact the skin’s appearance”. Studies have shown that alpha hydroxy acids can reduce the appearance of fine lines and hyperpigmentation, by evening out skin tone and color and increasing the skin’s firmness.

Another therapeutic benefit of AHAs is their ability to moisturize the skin. Topical AHA treatments and moisturizers containing AHAs are ideal for sun damaged and aging skin.

AHA peels can help treat acne and minimize the appearance of acne scarred skin. Not only do AHAs help to exfoliate the thick, superficial layers of the skin, they “increase resistance to surfactant induced skin irritation”.

One final benefit of AHAs is that they help to impart a glow to the skin. By removing the dead, dull cells on the outer layer of the skin, the “new skin” appears brighter and healthier.

Salicylic Acid, categorized as a beta hydroxy acid, is used in many cosmeceutical products as an acne treatment. Salicylic acid is oil soluble and therefore able to penetrate into a sebum filled pore.

Salicylic acid is also believed to have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. This makes it useful treatment for people with acne prone, aging, and even sensitive skin.

Vitamin C is an amazing antioxidant with a variety of wonderful benefits. When applied in a topical form, vitamin C helps the appearance of premature aging.

Vitamin C enhances collagen production in the skin. This wonder vitamin also helps to maintain and repair connective tissue, which promotes a more youthful look to the skin.

In addition to improving wrinkles, topical antioxidants such as Vitamin C are known to have photoprotective effects on the skin. While it will not absorb sunlight as a sunscreen does, it has been shown to reduce UVB-induced cellular damage and sunburn cell formation. It has also been shown to quadruple the sunblock protection effect when used in conjunction with sunblock.

Vitamin C has also been shown to help lighten sun-induced hyperpigmentation. In studies by Kameyama et al, vitamin C suppressed melanin formation. Additionally, when applied as a cream, it “caused a significant lightening” in over fifty percent of the patients tested.

Another way in which vitamin C helps prevent premature aging of the skin is by neutralizing free radicals and protecting the cells from oxidative stress. Free radicals and oxidative stress can damage the cells and collagen proteins. Topical vitamin C provides “armor” for your cells to be resilient against these skin cell attackers.

Finally, vitamin C also serves as an anti-inflammatory. When used in conjunction with a glycolic acid peel, vitamin C is effective in treating acne and acne scarring.

Resources: Cosmeceuticals, edited by Zoe Diana Draelos , copyright 2005, Elsevier Saunders.  Farris, Patricia “Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Vitamin C   8:51-55, Ditre, Cherie M. “Exfoliants: AHAs and BHAs” 16:111 -118